In this tutorial, Amy Howard will show you how to re-create the glazed finish found on the cover of Restoration Hardware's most recent issue! 

Along with the cover finish, Amy Howard will also be showing the finish found on page 80 of the baby & child catalog, a chest gilded with silver leaf and glaze.

The stars of this tutorial are our glazing liquid (imperative for any glazing project), and gel stain to use on top of our silver leaf.

The glazing liquid is going to give you extra protection for your finish, and thin down the paint allowing you to create different effects. 

The Restoration Hardware Cover Finish 

Step 1: Create Your Base 

Create your base coat using Amy Howard at Home One-Step paint. One or two coats will be enough for this finish. 

Step 2: Mix Your Glaze

Your glaze will combine one part One Step paint as pigment, glazing liquid, and room temperature tap water. 

Step 3: Apply Your Glaze 

Before you begin applying your glaze, make sure to have a rag, steal wool, and two brushes for a negative and positive tool. 

Now that you have mixed your glaze, begin applying the glaze with your Amy Howard at Home Chip Brush. 

While applying your glaze, work in sections insuring the surface is laying flat. 

Begin working with your lint free rag, and negative chip brush to reveal your base. 

This glazing technique allows for so much versatility! 

The Gilded Chest Finish 

In order to achieve this finish, you will need two containers of guiding size, 3 books of silver leaf, and 2 cans of our gel stain.  

Step 1: Gild Your Surface With Silver Leaf

You can view the full gilding tutorial here. 

Step 2: Mix Your Glaze Using Gel Stain

After gilding your piece, allowing it to dry over night to avoid lifting. 

Use one part of each Gel Stain, One part glazing liquid, and two parts water. 

Step 3: Apply Your Glaze 

Apply your glaze with your positive chip brush making sure it is uniform across your piece. 

Step 4: Striate Your Glaze

Begin going back with your negative brush and offloading the excess glaze onto a lint free rag. 

Now you can enjoy the bragging rights! 

Don't forget to tune in next week for Finish Friday on Facebook, and Instagram at 12 CST. 

How To Paint Your Furniture In One Step...

Did you know that we throw away over 30 million tons of furniture in the United States alone every single year? What a waste!

Amy Howard is on a mission to get us to stop tossing away old pieces and start rescuing promising finds along the road and at the thrift shop.

Many people are reticent to take on a DIY restoration project because they think it will be too challenging. But Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint makes it really easy, as Amy shows in this short video tutorial.

Safe, Quick, and Easy!

One-Step Paint is water-based, has no VOCs, and dries within 30 minutes. You don’t even need to seal it if you don’t want to.

This paint can be used on virtually any surface you can imagine, such as wood, formica, tile, metal upholstery, and even on brick. Use it to rescue kitchen cabinets, vanities, lampshades, or you-name-it. The surfaces are endless!

It’s fine to use One-Step Paint indoors, as it’s safe, has no bad odors or fumes, and actually boasts a nice-smelling fragrance

There is no need to sand, strip, or use a primer before applying this paint. Just clean it with Clean Slate to start, and you’re ready to begin painting.

Painting With One-Step Chalky Finish Paint 

Using a synthetic brush, Amy explains that you should make long, clean strokes to paint your piece. It’s generally better to work on a flat surface, so something like a drawer or door front ought to be laid down flat if possible. That said, if you do have to work on a vertical surface, the consistency of the paint is thick enough that it won’t be a problem.

Dark colors will generally give you better coverage, but if you want to paint using one of the many excellent lighter colors that One-Step Paint offers, you will just want to be sure to do two coats to ensure complete coverage. (Remember, it’s one-step paint, not necessarily one coat paint!)

Once finished, let it dry for 20 to 30 minutes, and then you can wax if you would like to.

Now it's your turn to enjoy the bragging rights! 

Have you ever wanted to quickly and easily create 18th century finishes?

In this tutorial, Amy Howard is going to walk you through the creation process in 7 simple steps.

This is one of the finishes we have been asked to show multiple times in our Amy Howard At Home Before And After Group. 

This specific finish is completed using a combination of Venetian plaster and Toscana milk paint.

Amy’s Tip: Always practice your finish on a sample piece of trim that you can find on our website or a worn piece of furniture from Habitat for Humanity or Goodwill.

STEP 1: Always make sure to clean your piece with Clean Slate before starting on your finish.

The reason we use our Clean Slate is because if the piece is older, it could have liquid gold or old wax still on it that most other cleaners will not remove. 

STEP 2: After cleaning your piece, you will want to apply a base coat of our One-Step Paint.

Even on melamine, we will not want to start with our Venetian plaster, because it will not bond properly, this is why we start with One-Step Paint.

We recommend using Bauhaus buff One-Step Paint because it is the closest color to our Venetian plaster. 

STEP 3: Begin mixing your Amy Howard At Home Venetian plaster.

You will mix it one part Plaster powder and one part water. I always like to say you want it the consistency of sour cream. 

Make sure and start with warm water, typically around room temperature so it mixes smoothly. 

STEP 4: Apply your Venetian Plaster.

When applying your plaster, it is best to use our Amy Howard At Home Chip Brushes. You will want to use a chip brush because the bristles are much thicker than the synthetic brush you will use to apply the One-Step Paint. 

The Venetian Plaster is water based and will easily wash off your hands after your project. 

Amy’s Tip: Be sure to mix your Milk Paint and Venetian plaster the night before your project. You will make sure and keep your plaster in an airtight container after mixing. 

STEP 5: Mix your Toscana Milk Paint. Remember to use warm water and mix one part Toscana Milk Paint to one part water. 

You will want to make sure there is no foam before painting, if you have foam, you can use a cheesecloth to strain your milk paint before applying. Make sure to mix your Toscana Milk Paint thoroughly so there are no lumps. 

Your Toscana Milk Paint will be good for up to 2 weeks after you mix it. It will be best to also keep your mixed milk paint in a lock tight container. 

Always make sure to agitate your brush at the bottom of your milk paint container, do not paint directly from the top of your mix. 

When applying your Toscana Milk Paint, you will want to paint in sections at a time and not all at once. If you are doing a chest of drawers, you will want to take the drawers out and complete one at a time. 

Amy’s Tip: Take a paper towel and dab on top of your wet milk paint to pull through the plaster. (example show at 17:35 of the video)

STEP 6: Directly after applying your Toscana Milk Paint, begin applying the Amy Howard At Home Antiquing Glaze with a natural sponge.

This will allow more of your Venetian plaster to come through and give your the appearance of a piece that has come from the 18th century. 

Amy’s Tip: Use the paper towel as your negative tool and the sponge as your positive tool (example shown at 19:49 of the video).  

STEP 7: After drying for 5-10 minutes you will come back and begin applying your waxes.

You will need to wax your entire piece with an Amy Howard At Home Hog Hair Brush to insure you seal your piece. 

Now it’s your turn to go and enjoy the bragging rights! 

Be sure and tune in next Finish Friday on The Amy Howard At Home Facebook Page. 

Amy’s Tip: If this finish is going to be used outdoors, you will want to make sure and seal your finish after.

Looking to revitalize your kitchen cabinets with a new color?

Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint will help you to quickly refresh the look of your cabinets.

With a brand-new slate of 100 custom colors, and an improved formula (which includes essential oils), it is easier than ever to use One-Step paint to get a perfect finish.

 

Painting your kitchen cabinets can be scary because, naturally, people are afraid of messing up. That’s why in this video, Amy and her husband Gene go over the process carefully to help you get it right.

This tutorial on painting kitchen cabinets can also apply to items like bathroom vanities and other types of furniture.   

Do a test run first 

Amy recommends going to a store like Goodwill to buy a cheap cabinet door that you can use as a sample.

“Test” your chosen Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint color on this piece to make sure you like the way it looks.

Amy's Tip: View it at different times of day in different lights, so you have a solid sense of what it will look like.

 Start with a Clean Slate 

When you are ready to get started on your cabinets, the only thing you need to do before you begin painting is to clean the item first, and we recommend using Amy Howard at Home Clean Slate. Not your average de-greaser, Clean Slate is a solvent-based, refinisher-grade cleaner that removes wax, dirt, grease, smoke residue, and more, to provide the best adhesion for the paint.

Use Clean Slate in a ventilated area. Apply it to a rag and wipe down the item that you are preparing to paint. Once you have cleaned it, go back over it with a dry rag – no rinsing or washing down necessary. It will be dry in about five to 10 minutes.

Use a Synthetic Brush

For cabinets, don’t use a chip brush. Instead, Amy recommends using a Synthetic Brush with microfiber because it will lay paint down flatter with a smoother finish, and reduce the visible brush marks in paint.

Amy's Tip: If you’re using a brush to paint, use a brush for everything. If you are using a roller, use it for everything. This is important so that you don’t see a difference in texture.

Apply One-Step Paint

Now it’s time to paint your kitchen cabinets! Here are some techniques to keep in mind as your paint: 

• Shake and stir your One-Step Paint
  
  

• If you are painting the door of the cabinet, try propping it up so that you can get around the edges more easily
   
  

• Always paint with the grain if you’re painting wood grain

• Paint long, quick strokes

• Remember that it’s better to do two light coats of paint than one heavy coat, because if you put it on too heavy it will have a tendency to crack

• A triangle brush works well for crevices

• Paint off of the edges, rather than on the edges (which will puddle)

The first coat should dry in 30 minutes to one hour, and then you can move on to your second coat. Remember, you don’t have to seal Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint!

Visit our full collection of Amy Howard Home One-Step Paint Colors here, and get started on you kitchen cabinets today! 

In this tutorial, Amy Howard breaks down when to seal furniture, how to seal it, and what to seal it with. 

When working with Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint, you do not have to seal your furniture or decor finishes. If you are using a different chalk based paint or milk paint, you will need to seal your finish after painting. 

At Amy Howard at Home, we have several products that can be used to seal your furniture & decor...

• The Matt Sealer 
• Clear Wax
• Light Antique Wax
• Dark Antique Wax 
• Bight Idea Spray

Matte Sealer (Water Based) 

Wax can go over your Matte Sealer, but it is not necessary.

The Matte Sealer is best used when working with floors, or to protect a chalky matt finish

The surface that is sealed with Matte Sealer can be cleaned with water or windex.

When applying the Matte Sealer, do not use a chip brush, use a synthetic brush or roller to apply properly. 

Clear Wax

Wanting to seal a piece but not antique it? The Clear Wax is best for adding a non colored, clear patina and protective top coat.  

 Light Antique Wax

Light Antique Wax is formulated to protect your finishes and give them the cozy, golden warmth we love in a well-worn antique.

You can use the Light Antique Wax on metal, to preserve and enhance patina, or to act as a protectant and sealer for raw wood. 

The Light Antique Wax pairs perfectly with your stained and painted pieces and gives milk paint an authentic, vintage sheen.

Dark Antique Wax 

This special formulation can be used on metal to preserve or enhance patina, as well as on raw or painted wood as protectant or sealer.

Never to be used by itself, our Dark Antique Wax is best to use when wanting to antique furniture or decor and add an aged appearance. You will want to use the Dark Antique Wax on top of the Light Antique Wax. 

The Dark Antique Wax is cleanable with clean slate or paint thinner.

It is best to use the wax pucks when working on furniture and to use them with a brush. 

Bight Idea Spray

The Bright Idea, clear coat spray is best for a high gloss finish. 

Bright Idea can be applied on top of one-step paint or other finishes to achieve a high gloss, sealed, top coat.

When using the Bright Idea spray with the Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint, you do not need to use a primer before applying.  

Amy's Tip: If you see finger prints, you've applied too much wax!

In the video above, Amy Howard shows how to apply Matte Sealer, and how to use our waxes as a sealant for your furniture and decor. 

Don't forget to join us next Finish Friday on Facebook, and Instagram. 

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