Rescuing and restoring various furniture pieces can be a very rewarding experience for anyone!

You should, however, know exactly what type of products have to be used in order to achieve the most ideal results in every project you embark on.

In this tutorial, we focus on the differences between the Amy Howard at Home selections of Toscana Milk Paint and chalk-based paint - when they should and shouldn’t be applied, what finishes can be achieved, and what things make Amy Howard at Home refinishing products better than most.

The Difference Between Milk Paint & Chalk Based Paint

When you purchase a can of One-Step Paint from Amy Howard at Home, you’ll find the product ready to use as it is.

One-Step Paint can be applied on practically any surface - plastic, glass, resin, and even fabric.

The Toscana Milk Paint products, on the other hand, are in powder form. Milk Paint is made from casein, which is a milk-based product.

Once you prepare your Toscana Milk Paint from Amy Howard at Home and mix it with water, you can expect a shelf life of 1-2 weeks. Left un-mixed, Milk Paint can last for years in its powdered form. 

Ideal Usage For Milk Paint & Chalk Based Paint

Due to its great adhesive quality, One-Step Paint can provide great coverage over various surfaces. You can, for instance, use it to restore an old drawer and make it look like new.

If you want to mimic the look of a worn, antique chair, instead, a layered Milk Paint finish will do the job right. You can also use milk paint with Antiquing Glaze and Cracked Gesso for even better results.

Amy Howard At Home Toscana Milk Paint

Note, though, that not all milk paints are made equal. Milk paint options from Amy Howard at Home are superior in both beauty and quality.

All pigments used for each and every pack of Toscana Milk Paint are shipped from natural quarries in Provence.

Every Toscana Milk Paint color has great depth and is naturally beautiful; whereas, other offerings in the market might only be synthetic.

Knowledge truly is the key to succeeding with any endeavor.

Successfully rescue and restore furniture throughout your home by choosing the right paint for the ideal finish.

If you want to try creating beautiful milk paint or chalk-based paint projects, try doing so with the following products:

One-Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/pages/one-step-collections

Toscana Milk Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/milk-paint

Strasbourg White Toscana Milk Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/milk-paint/products/strasbourg-white-toscana-milk-paint

Calais Green Toscana Milk Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/milk-paint/products/calais-green-toscana-milk-paint

Cracked Gesso
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/legno-gesso-cracked-gesso-1

Antiquing Glaze
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/antiquing/products/antiquing-glaze

With the right tools and expert guidance, you can easily create a faux Carrara marble finish to improve almost any part of your home.

This faux marble finish can be achieved with Amy Howard products on practically every type of surface - floors, walls, drawers, and many others.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to achieve a great Carrara marble look, specifically, for a beautiful kitchen countertop!

Step 1: Choose Your Colors

 

First, choose the One-Step Paint colors you want to work with.

For this project, Amy chose One-Step Paint in Ballet White for the base coat. Luxe Grey and Graphite were for the scumble and the base. You can add another complementary color like Good Man is Hard to Find for added detail.

Step 2: Put Your Base Paint On

Using a foam roller, evenly cover your entire countertop with your chosen base paint color. Two coats should be good enough.

This is the only time you’ll be using your paint as is. For the rest of the project, you’ll have to apply each of your chosen colors as a glaze.

Step 3: Scumbling

Your next layer of paint will be applied via scumbling, covering most of your countertop surface.

Create a scumbling glaze by mixing one part paint, one part Glazed Over, and three parts water. Using a sea wool sponge, apply the glaze over your countertop. Do so following a 45-degree angle, going from the upper-left to the lower-right sections.

Step 4: Smooth Your Scumble

Using a packed and flattened lint-free towel, soften your second layer further and allow the paint to blend into the negative spaces. Allow some areas to be darker than others.

Let your countertop dry.

Step 5: Veining

Using the same One-Step Paint color as your scumble, make a veining glaze with a mixture of paint, Glazed Over, and water. The objective is to create thin veins as well as thick veins.

Soften a turkey feather in water and use it to apply your second glaze. Do so by lifting your feather up and laying it down, repeatedly, aiming to have different size and color veins on about 60% of your countertop.

Step 6: Secondary Veins

Create a second veining glaze with another color like Graphite One-Step Paint and aim to cover about 20% of your countertop with darker, even thicker veins.

Step 7: Soften Your Veins

With a chip brush and in a pouncing motion, soften the veins you created and allow them to blend into your first two paint layers.

Be careful not to drag your brush. You can also use a packed, lint-free rag to help soften the veins even further.

Step 8: Glaze with Your Base

Using one part of your base coat paint, one part Glazed Over, and two to three parts water, mix a thin top glaze to apply all over your countertop. Use a foam roller to cover the entire surface.

Step 9: Set Everything Back

Soften and set all your paint layers back with the use of a clean lint-free rag. As though repeatedly patting your countertop dry, continually move your rag around, following the same direction along a 45-degree angle on your countertop.

Let everything dry.

Step 10: Seal Your Countertop

With a foam roller, apply a coat of the Amy Howard Matte Sealer. This will keep your countertop protected and help keep its finish looking great for a long time.

Particularly, if you’re new to projects such as this, you can practice creating a faux Carrara marble finish on masonite boards first. The more you do so, the better and more creative you’ll become.

You can recreate the same faux Carrara marble finish in this tutorial with the following products:


Ballet White - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/ballet-white-one-step-paint

Luxe Grey - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/luxe-grey-one-step-paint

Graphite - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/one-step-paint/products/graphite-one-step-paint

Good Man is Hard to Find - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/one-step-paint/products/good-man-is-hard-to-find-one-step-paint

Glazed Over
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/glaze/products/glazed-over

Paint Roller
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/paint-roller-bundle

Matte Sealer
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/matte-sealer

Chip Brush
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/tools/products/1-5-flat-paint-brush

 

Looking for a fun & easy DIY home decor project? 

Try creating your very own stamped napkins and tea towels! 

In this Amy Howard At Home tutorial, we're going to show you just how simple it can be to create incredible custom napkins from the comfort of your home. 

NOTE: The material list for this DIY project can be found at the bottom of the page.

DIY Stamped Napkin Instructions

Step 1: Begin by cutting your foam sheet into small strips the same length as your block.

 

Step 2: After cutting your foam strips, use your hot glue gun to first glue two pieces of foam together and then glue them onto your block, leaving a gap between each strip.

 

Step 3: Now that you've created your stamp, mix 1 part water to 2 parts paint of each One-Step Paint color that you've chosen.

 

Step 4: Using our Foam Dome Brush, dip the foam brush into each color and begin to offload on a piece of cardboard using an up-down motion.

 

Step 5: After offloading some of your One-Step Paint onto the piece of cardboard, use the same up-down motion to apply the paint to your homemade stamp.

Try to apply the darker color (Cherbourg) on one side, the lighter color (Barefoot In The Park) on the other, and then a mix of the two in the middle. 

This will give you an ombre effect.

 

Step 6: After covering your stamp with One Step Paint, place the stamp down starting on the corner of the napkin. Apply firm pressure.

 

Step 6: Carefully lift the stamp up and then repeat the steps alternating the direction of the stripes. Apply more One Step Paint as needed. 

 

 

Ready to get started on your DIY Stamped Napkin? 

Here are the Amy Howard At Home products used...

1. Barefoot In The Park – One Step Paint

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/barefoot-in-the-park-one-step-paint

2. Cherbourg – One Step Paint

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/cherbourg-one-step-paint

3. Foam Dome Brush

https://amakersstudio.com/collections/tools/products/foam-dome-brush-1-5

4. Cloth Napkin

https://bit.ly/12ctNapkins

5. Square Block of Styrofoam (or block of wood)

https://bit.ly/FoamBlocks

6. Piece of Foam Sheet

https://bit.ly/FoamSheets

7. Scissors

8. Hot Glue Gun

9. Two plastic cups or containers

Your kitchen may be the busiest - and most nurturing - part of your home and keeping that space at its best, at all times, is beneficial not just for you but for your family and friends too.

One sure way to improve your kitchen is by breathing new life into your countertop. If you have a Formica countertop, you can try giving it a faux granite finish for a timeless and elegant look.

 

Step 1: Clean Your Countertop

Using Clean Slate by Amy Howard at Home, clear your countertop of dust, dirt, and other particles that may get in the way of achieving what Gene calls “maximum adhesion” for your paint.

Use a clean cotton rag to apply the product all over the countertop surface. Afterward, wipe it down with another clean cloth to remove any residue.

 

Step 2: Apply the Base Paint

To ensure an even base paint application, use a brush to paint over rolled edges as well as your countertop’s front. For the flat surface, use a paint roller instead to avoid brush marks.

Let the paint dry for, at least, several hours before moving to the next step. For this project, Gene used Ballet White - One Step Paint as the base.

 

Step 3: Choose Your Colors 

In replicating the look of a granite countertop surface, Amy says two colors would be too little and four would be too much.

Pick three colors that you can layer on top of each other to best mimic the look of granite. Pick one light color, one medium tint, and a dark hue too.

 

Step 4: Mix Your Glaze

The key to successfully completing this project is to apply your chosen colors as a glaze instead of using them as is.

Mix one part regular tap water, one part paint, and one part Glazed Over. Do this for each of the three colors you’d chosen earlier.

 

Step 5: Apply Glaze #1

 

Using a sea wool sponge, you can now apply your first glaze. Amy’s advice is to go from light to dark.

In this tutorial, Luxe Grey - One Step Paint served as the light paint and should be applied first. Do not cover more than 60% of your countertop with the glaze.

 

Step 6: Apply Glaze #2

Graphite - One Step Paint was chosen as the medium tint paint in the tutorial and should be applied next. Remember to maintain only a 60% coverage so your base paint can still shine through.

 

Step 7: Apply Glaze #3

In applying the third glaze, lower coverage to just 20%-25% of your countertop surface. This project used Good Man is Hard to Find - One Step Paint for the third glaze.

 

Step 8: Make Accents

Using just the dark paint this time, accentuate about 6%-7% of your countertop. Remember to use the solid paint instead of the glaze for this step.

Let Good Man is Hard to Find dry and then do the same with Luxe Grey to help soften the look of your countertop.

 

Step 9: Let Your Countertop Dry

Make sure that you leave your countertop to dry overnight before sealing it. That amount of time will sufficiently allow adequate curing, giving all the layers of paint you’ve applied to properly set.

 

Step 10: Seal Your Countertop

Although all the paint and glazing used in this project are good on their own, adding a layer of the Amy Howard Matte Sealer will make your countertop even better protected.

Apply the sealer with a foam roller to ensure a smooth application. Don’t worry about how white your countertop may look while you are sealing it as the Matte Sealer will dry clear later on.

Make your kitchen a more functional and enjoyable space with a refinished countertop.

Ready To Get Started On Your DIY Granite Finish? 

Here are the Amy Howard At Home products used in the tutorial... 

Clean Slate
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/clean-slate

Ballet White - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/ballet-white-one-step-paint

Glazed Over
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/glaze/products/glazed-over

Luxe Grey - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/luxe-grey-one-step-paint

Graphite - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/one-step-paint/products/graphite-one-step-paint

Good Man is Hard to Find - One Step Paint
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/one-step-paint/products/good-man-is-hard-to-find-one-step-paint

Matte Sealer
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/matte-sealer

Paint Roller
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/paint-roller-bundle

Cerusing Wax (not included in the project but mentioned in the video)
https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/cerusing-wax-1

Adding incredible depth and color to your kitchen countertops can be easy! 

In this DIY tutorial, Amy Howard shows us how to glaze our kitchen countertops to get a beautiful stone texture in just a few simple steps.

Paint Your Kitchen Countertops

Before you make and apply your glaze, you’ll want to make sure the countertops are painted with our One-Step Paint as a base. 

You can view our tutorial on painting your kitchen countertops with One-Step Paint here

If you are planning on glazing your kitchen countertops, you will not seal them after painting with One-Step Paint. 

Once you’ve applied two coats of One-Step Paint on your countertops and they’ve fully dried, you can begin making your glaze. 

Make Your Countertop Glaze 

Making a glaze for your kitchen countertops is easier than you think! 

The glaze you’re going to be making for the kitchen countertops is going to consist of three parts. 

You’ll want to have each part separate in its own container before mixing them together to create your glaze.

Glazed Over - One Part

Our Glazed Over not only adds more depth and color but acts as a water-based sealant for your countertops. 

 

One-Step Paint - One Part 

For our countertops, we used our One-Step Paint in Summer Ragada, and tint it with just 2-3 spoon fulls of Good Man Is Hard To Find.

 

Regular Tap Water - One Part

 

Note: One-Step Paint will go a long way when added to your glaze. 

Start by mixing together your chosen One-Step Paint colors, add your one part glazed over, and one part regular tap water then mix well. 

Your glaze will be more transparent, not opaque like your One-Step Paint and it will give you more depth. 

Glazing will give you more color and texture depending on the medium you use. 

Apply The Glaze To Your Countertops

Tip: practice on masonite to get a very similar finish to as if you were working on your Formica countertops.

When applying the glaze to your countertops, it is best to use a Foam Roller Brush and apply the glaze evenly across the surface. 

After applying the glaze to the top of your countertops, you’ll want to come back and use a lint-free rag or shop towel (to avoid texture) to pat across your glaze and create a bit of modeling. 

When patting your countertops with the rag, it’s important to not go all the way across your countertops or work linearly. This will ensure a more organic finish. 

After you’ve completely modeled the top of your countertops, allow your finish to dry for at least 2 hours. 

Once dried, come back and apply a nice even application of our Matte Sealer to finish. 

Allow your finish to cure for 24 hours

Now you have beautiful stone textured countertops that you’ll be able to enjoy for years to come! 

Ready To Glaze Your Kitchen Countertops? 

Here are the products used in this Amy Howard At Home tutorial…

1. Glazed Over

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/glazed-ove

2. Summer Ragada | One-Step Paint

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/summer-regatta-one-step-paint

3. A Good Man Is Hard To Find | One-Step Paint

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/good-man-is-hard-to-find-one-step-paint

4. Foam Roller Brush

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/brushes/products/paint-roller-handle-wooden-4-0

Dreaming of new kitchen countertops?

In this tutorial, Amy Howard shows us how to easily paint our kitchen countertops with One-Step, a chalk-based paint. 

No matter if you’re just wanting to bring new life to old Formica countertops, or want to re-do your entire kitchen, this tutorial will help you learn how!

 

When working with Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint, you don’t have to worry about stripping, sanding, or priming your project before you begin. 

Simply clean your piece using a product like our Clean Slate to remove any dirt, dust, grime, or old wax and you’re ready to paint. 

STEP 1: Clean Your Countertops

Before you begin painting your kitchen countertops, you’ll want to make sure to thoroughly clean the area that will be painted to get the best adhesion possible. 

We recommend using our Clean Slate to remove any wax, oil, grease, grime, or surfactants from your kitchen countertops.  

STEP 2: Paint The Back Panel & Front of The Countertop

 

Before painting the center of your countertops, you’ll want to start by cutting in and painting the back panel, as well as the front of your countertop with our Wedge Specialty Brush. 

Start with one thin and even coat.

NOTE: When painting the back panel and front of your countertop, try to cut out onto the top of the countertop so you don’t have to worry about your roller rubbing up against the areas you cut in. 

STEP 3: Paint The Center Of Your Countertop 

After painting the back panel and front of your kitchen countertop, use our Foam Roller Brush to paint the center of your counter for a smooth and easy finish. 

You’ll want to start with one thin and even coat then let it dry completely before starting on your second coat. 

NOTE: Using the Foam Roller Brush prevents any texture from the paint showing on your countertops, giving you a smooth finish. 

STEP 4: Apply Your Second Coat 

Once you’ve allowed your first coat to dry around an hour, you’ll come back and apply your second coat to the back panel, front, and center of your kitchen countertop. 

Step 5: Seal Your Kitchen Countertops

While you don’t have to seal the Amy Howard At Home One-Step Paint, we always want to add additional protection to surfaces like our kitchen countertops. 

Sealing your countertops with our Matte Sealer makes your countertops easier to clean with products like Windex, or Clorox wipes when removing any food residue. 

Using our Matte Sealer prevents any yellowing while still keeping your countertops protected for a very long time. 

Just like you applied the One-Step Paint, you’ll want to cut in on the back panel and front before starting on the center of your kitchen countertop with the Foam Roller Brush. 

It will be best to apply two coats of our Matte Sealer to create a smoother finish, add more protection, and make your countertops even easier to clean. 

Ready To Get Started On Your Kitchen Countertops? 

Here are the products used in this Amy Howard At Home tutorial…

1. One-Step Chalk Based Paint - Summer Ragada 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/summer-regatta-one-step-paint

2. Clean Slate furniture cleaner 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/clean-slate

3. Wedge Specialty Brush  

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/brushes/products/wedge-specialty-brush

4. Foam Roller Brush

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/brushes/products/paint-roller-handle-wooden-4-0

3 finishes anyone can do with a chalk-based paint! 

In this tutorial, Amy Howard and her husband Gene cover 3 types of finishes you can achieve using the Amy Howard At Home One-Step chalk-based paint. 

 

These 3 chalk-based paint finishes are perfect for your kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, or any other type of furniture and decor. 

STEP 1: Prepare Your Surface 

Before starting any project, we want to make sure and clean the surface of our piece to get the best adhesion possible. 

Cleaning your furniture or cabinetry ensures that any silicones, grease, grime or other surfactants are removed. 

We recommend using our Clean Slate and a lint-free rag to thoroughly clean your piece, and wipe the remaining Clean Slate off with a dry lint-free rag. 

Now you’re ready to paint! 

STEP 2: Apply Your Chalk Based Paint 

 

Now that your furniture or cabinetry is clean, you can begin using your Chalk Based paint to cover your piece. 

We recommend doing two coats using our New One-Step Paint formula to get the absolute best coverage on your furniture and cabinetry. 

When working with Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint, you don’t have to worry about stripping, sanding, or priming your project before you begin.

We also recommend applying the One-Step Paint with our Synthetic Wedge Specialty Brush because it will lay the paint down much smoother. 

STEP 3: Choose Your Finish 

 

After you’ve painted two coats of the One-Step Paint on your furniture or cabinetry, you’ll want to decide the finish you are going to go with on your piece. 

The great part about using our One-Step Paint on your furniture or cabinetry is that you do not have to seal it if you don’t want to.

 

1. Matte Finish 

The Amy Howard At Home One-Step Paint dries to a lovely matte finish that you do not have to seal. If you decide to choose this finish, you’re all done! 

The One-Step Paint can be cleaned with Windex, or soap and water and it will not affect the matte finish on your furniture or cabinetry.

 

2. Light Antique Finish 

If you want your cabinets or furniture to have an authentic patina and a light sheen, we recommend using our Mind Your Own Beeswax - furniture wax. 

You can apply this light antiquing wax using a lint-free rag, making sure not to apply too much at one time. 

TIP: If completing your kitchen cabinets, you can expect to need up to three bottles of our Mind Your Own Beeswax.

You’ll want to give the Mind Your Own Beeswax up to three or four hours to dry before coming back with a lint-free rag to buff it and get a beautiful natural patina. 

 

3. Light Sheen - High Protection Finish 

With a brush and roller, you can use our Matte Sealer to get a light sheen and add incredible protection to your furniture or cabinetry. 

Start by applying one light coat of our Matte Sealer to your project and letting it dry.  

TIP: Remember that the Matte Sealer goes on white and dries clear. This is also a great way to know when it has dried. 

After applying one light coat, come back with 400 grit sandpaper, lightly sand, then apply a second coat of Matte Sealer.

Lightly sanding your furniture or cabinetry will allow the second coat of Matt Sealer to apply much easier with more coverage. 

After your second coat of Matte Sealer has dried, you’re done! 

Now you can enjoy a durable finish that is easy to clean. 

Ready to get started on your next project?

Here are the Amy Howard at Home refinishing products used in the video: 

1. One-Step Chalk Based Paint - Weybridge Classic  

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/weybridge-classic-one-step-paint

2. Clean Slate furniture cleaner 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/small-clean-slate-8oz

3. Synthetic Wedge Specialty Brush  

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/collections/brushes/products/wedge-specialty-brush

4. Paint Roller Brush 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/paint-roller-bundle

5. Mind Your Own Beeswax furniture wax. 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/mind-your-own-beeswax

You can view more products by Amy Howard at Home here: 

👉 https://www.amyhowardhome.com

Have you ever wanted to bring new life to your bathroom vanity or cabinets? 

This tutorial will show you how to do it the DIY way WITHOUT spending a fortune! 

In this Finish Friday, Amy Howard and her husband Gene show us how to EASILY refinish & paint your bathroom vanity in just one step. 

Painting your bathroom vanity is the perfect weekend project that absolutely anyone can do, no matter if you’re a seasoned expert or beginner.

Just like Amy, you can start by choosing your favorite One-Step Paint color after looking over the NEW hand-made Amy Howard at Home One Step Paint Guide. 

You can find the hand-made One Step Paint Color Guide Here.

STEP 1: Remove Your Hardware

As you prepare to paint your vanity or cabinets, you’ll want to make sure to remove any knobs, handles, or screws if you do not plan on painting them. 

It is best to label your hardware based on the door or drawer it came from using a sharpie and tape. 

STEP 2: Clean Your Bathroom Vanity 

 

Before you begin painting your bathroom vanity or cabinets, you’ll want to make sure to thoroughly clean each area that will be painted to get the best adhesion possible. 

We recommend using our Clean Slate to remove any wax, oil, grease, grime, or surfactants from your bathroom vanity or cabinets.  

STEP 2: Remove & Paint Your Drawers

 

Now that you’ve cleaned your vanity or cabinets, it’s time to start painting. 

If you have any drawers (or doors that are easier to paint taken off), you’ll want to remove them and begin applying your first coat of One Step Paint before beginning on the base of the vanity.

No matter the type of cabinetry you have, or its current finish, the Amy Howard at Home One Step Paint is perfect for completing this project quickly and easily. 

For steady application and ease of use, we recommend using our 1.5” Nylon Tapered Paint Brush to complete your drawers and doors. 

If your drawers and doors have a larger surface area, you can use our Foam Roller Brush to paint the top of them without the risk of brush marks. 

STEP 3: Paint Your Bathroom Vanity Or Cabinets

 

After applying the first coat of One Step Paint to your drawers and doors, while it dries, you’ll want to begin painting the base of your bathroom vanity or cabinets. 

For the larger areas of your bathroom vanity or cabinets, like the sides, you can use our Foam Roller Brush to efficiently apply your first coat. 

For smaller areas, such as in between the drawers, you can continue using the 1.5” Nylon Tapered Paint Brush.

STEP 4: Let Your First Coat Dry 

After painting the first coat onto the drawers, doors, and the base of your vanity or cabinets, you’ll want to let them air-dry for at least an hour before you apply the second coat.

You’ll know when your piece is completely dry because it will come to a flat matte finish. 

STEP 5: Apply Your Second Coat

 

Once all of your work has dried, you’ll want to begin applying your second coat of One Step Paint in the same order as before (drawers and doors then the base of your bathroom vanity or cabinets). 

The great part about completing your project with the Amy Howard at Home One Step Paint is that you will not need to sand in-between coats! 

Simply apply the second coat of One Step Paint and you’re finished painting! 

STEP 6 (Optional): Apply Wax 

 

Now, this step is completely optional…

After your second coat of One Step Paint has dried and before you put the hardware back on, you can apply our Mind Your Own Beeswax to add an additional coat of protection and a light patina to your finish. 

Ready To Get Started On Your Bathroom Vanity Or Cabinets? 

Here are the products used in this Amy Howard At Home tutorial…

 

One-Step Chalk Based Paint - Summer Ragada

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/summer-regatta-one-step-paint

Clean Slate furniture cleaner 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/clean-slate

1.5” Nylon Tapered Paint Brush 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/1-5-nylon-tapered-brush

Foam Roller Brush

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/paint-roller-bundle 

Mind Your Own Beeswax furniture wax. 

https://www.amyhowardhome.com/products/mind-your-own-beeswax

Ever wanted to add the perfect piece of antique decor to your home, but didn’t know where to start? 

In this week’s tutorial, we’re going to show you how to EASILY DIY your very own Chippy Finish Lamp using one we found laying around! 

The results are breathtaking and yet so simple to achieve for any DIY enthusiast.  

No matter if this is your first home decor refinish project or your thousandth, you are sure to enjoy taking an average lamp and turning it into an extraordinary piece of antiqued decor. 

STEP 1: Find Your Lamp 

Of course, the first step to any DIY home decor project is finding the piece you are going to be transforming. 

We chose to start with a blue lacquered lamp we found at a local thrift store. 

The great part about refinishing with Amy Howard at Home products is, you can apply this technique to any kind of lamp (porcelain, ceramic, glass, concrete, wood, metal, etc)!

Step 2: Apply Your Base Coat

Next, we’re going to apply our base coat to the lamp using Amy Howard at Home One-Step Paint in Bauhaus Buff. 

This is going to be the layer that we apply our Cracked Patina to that we then sandwich in between or next color to achieve a chippy finish. 

Make sure to apply two coats of One-Step Paint to ensure complete coverage. 

When choosing your color, it is important to remember that this base color will be showing through your top color in the areas that the finish is “chippy”. 

For the application of One-Step Paint, we recommend our WEDGE SPECIALTY BRUSH for larger lamps or the 1.5” Nylon Tapered Brush for smaller lamps. 

Step 3: Apply Your Cracked Patina 

Now’s the fun part. After your base coat of One-Step Paint has dried, pour a small amount of our Cracked Patina into a bowl and begin thoroughly applying it to your lamp. 

For applying your Cracked Patina, we recommend using a 2.5” Flat Chip Brush.

The more Cracked Patina you apply to your lamp, the “chippier” your finish will be. 

NOTE: Applying more Cracked Patina with increase the drying time. 

Make sure that your lamp is completely covered in Cracked Patina and let it try for 2-3 hours until it has reached a Tac. 

A tac simply means that you Cracked Patina is not completely dry, and still has a small amount of stickiness. 

This will be important as you add your topcoat so the finish can begin to get that lovely “chippy” finish. 

Step 4: Begin Your Top Coat

Now that you have applied your Cracked Patina and allowed it to come to tack, begin applying your second coat of One Step Paint (preferably in a different color) one section at a time. 

For our lamp, we used our Selznick Gray One-Step Paint to off-set the Bauhaus Buff for a beautiful antiqued “chippy” finish. 

Once you have applied the first section of your topcoat, use your fingers to lightly pull up on the topcoat and pull away small sections until you achieve the desired finish.

Once you have a “chippy” finish in the consistency you like, complete the rest of your lamps top-coat.

Step 5: Lightly Sand Your Finish

After your top coat of One-Step Paint has dried, come back with a small amount of sand-paper and lightly sand your “chippy” finish to smooth out your textures. 

How much of the “chippy” finish you sand is completely up to you.

Step 6: Apply Light Antique Wax

Now that we have lightly sanded down our “chippy” finish, we’re going to come back and apply our Amy Howard At Home Light Antique Wax. 

This light Antique Wax is not only going to help protect our piece, but also provide a beautiful patina and allow adhesion of our Dust Of Ages that we are going to add in the next step. 

To apply the Light Antique Wax, we recommend using our 2” Round Hog Hair Brush and lightly offloading some into a rag before applying to your lamp in a cross-hatch motion. 

It’s important to apply the wax evenly across your lamp, but don’t apply too much or you can expect the drying process to take a bit longer. 

Step 6: Aging Our Chippy Finish 

 

After applying your wax and letting it come to tack, we are going to add the final touches with the Amy Howard At Home Dust Of Ages. 

Dust Of Ages works to give your lamp hundreds of years of character in just one simple technique. 

You can begin by thoroughly applying the Dust Of Ages onto your lamp, this is where your Light Antique Wax is going to act as a binder to hold the Dust Of Ages in place. 

After covering your piece with Dust Of Ages, simply come back with a rag or brush and lightly go over the outside of your lamp, allowing the dust to settle into every crack and crevice. 

And that’s it! 

Now you have your very own piece of antiqued home decor with a “chippy” finish with authentic vintage charm.

 

Here’s the list of products used in our tutorial! 

Bauhaus Buff One-Step Paint

Selznick Gray One-Step Paint

WEDGE SPECIALTY BRUSH

1.5” Nylon Tapered Brush

Cracked Patina

2.5” Flat Chip Brush

Amy Howard At Home Light Antique Wax

2” Round Hog Hair Brush

Amy Howard At Home Dust Of Ages

 

In this tutorial, Amy Howard will show you how to re-create the glazed finish found on the cover of Restoration Hardware's most recent issue! 

Along with the cover finish, Amy Howard will also be showing the finish found on page 80 of the baby & child catalog, a chest gilded with silver leaf and glaze.

The stars of this tutorial are our glazing liquid (imperative for any glazing project), and gel stain to use on top of our silver leaf.

The glazing liquid is going to give you extra protection for your finish, and thin down the paint allowing you to create different effects. 

The Restoration Hardware Cover Finish 

Step 1: Create Your Base 

Create your base coat using Amy Howard at Home One-Step paint. One or two coats will be enough for this finish. 

Step 2: Mix Your Glaze

Your glaze will combine one part One Step paint as pigment, glazing liquid, and room temperature tap water. 

Step 3: Apply Your Glaze 

Before you begin applying your glaze, make sure to have a rag, steal wool, and two brushes for a negative and positive tool. 

Now that you have mixed your glaze, begin applying the glaze with your Amy Howard at Home Chip Brush. 

While applying your glaze, work in sections insuring the surface is laying flat. 

Begin working with your lint free rag, and negative chip brush to reveal your base. 

This glazing technique allows for so much versatility! 

The Gilded Chest Finish 

In order to achieve this finish, you will need two containers of guiding size, 3 books of silver leaf, and 2 cans of our gel stain.  

Step 1: Gild Your Surface With Silver Leaf

You can view the full gilding tutorial here. 

Step 2: Mix Your Glaze Using Gel Stain

After gilding your piece, allowing it to dry over night to avoid lifting. 

Use one part of each Gel Stain, One part glazing liquid, and two parts water. 

Step 3: Apply Your Glaze 

Apply your glaze with your positive chip brush making sure it is uniform across your piece. 

Step 4: Striate Your Glaze

Begin going back with your negative brush and offloading the excess glaze onto a lint free rag. 

Now you can enjoy the bragging rights! 

Don't forget to tune in next week for Finish Friday on Facebook, and Instagram at 12 CST.