Have you ever found a gorgeous knob, finial, or ornate fragment at a flea market and thought… If only I had a few more of these?

In this workshop, Amy and Gene Howard show you exactly how to do that.

You’ll learn how to take one-of-a-kind found objects and turn them into custom silicone molds—then use those molds to create heirloom-quality details with WoodCast™.

Whether you’re a furniture artist, DIYer, collector, or creative entrepreneur, this technique opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

 

Products Used in This Workshop

Mold-Making Essentials

• AHAH Silicone Mold Kit (Part A + Part B) — to create custom molds

• Container for molding (Tupperware-style, Pyrex, smooth metal, sturdy plastic)

• Hot glue gun — to secure found objects so they don’t float

• Brush — to apply release product into crevices

Release Options

• Mind Your Own Beeswax (recommended) — thin, easy-to-apply release

• Vaseline (alternate option)

Casting Essentials

• WoodCast™ — wood fiber casting material for appliqués and details

• 100% Pure Acetone — required to soften WoodCast™ and press into detail

Optional (Mentioned as Alternatives)

• CeramiCast — can be used in molds (creates heat)

• Resin — can also be used depending on your project

Step 1: Pick a Found Object Worth Repeating

Look for pieces with character and detail—especially things you’d love to use again.

Amy mentions examples like:

• Antique fragments from fairs (including a Florence street fair treasure)

• Old hardware and knobs

• Decorative trim pieces

• Frames and carved elements

• Finials that could become curtain hardware, tiebacks, or décor accents

If you love it—and wish you had multiples—it’s a great mold candidate.

Step 2: Choose the Right Container

You don’t need anything fancy.

Gene recommends using:

• A small Tupperware-style container

• Glass or Pyrex

• A smooth metal container

• Even sturdy dollar-store plastic containers (they can work!)

What matters most is that the container is non-porous and stiff enough to hold the weight of the silicone.

How much space do you need?

Aim for about ½ inch of space around the object.

More space = more silicone used, so keep it snug but workable.

Step 3: Measure Silicone the Easy Way (The Water Trick)

Not sure how much silicone you’ll need?

Gene’s simple trick:

1. Place your object in the container

2. Fill the container with water around it

3. Pour the water into a measuring cup

4. That’s roughly how much silicone mixture you’ll need

Your object takes up space, but it’s better to mix a little extra than run short.

Step 4: Protect Your Object (So You Don’t Ruin It)

A common worry: Will making a mold damage my antique find?

If the object is delicate (or has loose gilding), apply a thin release layer first.

Gene recommends:

• Mind Your Own Beeswax (dry-brushed lightly), or

• Vaseline (if that’s what you have)

Use a brush so the release gets into crevices and undercuts.

Keep it thin—not heavy.

Step 5: Secure Your Object (So It Doesn’t Float)

Before pouring silicone, Gene uses a hot glue gun to attach the object to the bottom of the container.

Why?

Because when the silicone goes in, even heavier objects can lift and float, shifting the mold and ruining detail.

A few glue dots prevent movement—and the glue pops off later.

Step 6: Mix and Pour the Silicone

The silicone kit includes:

• Part A (rubber)

• Part B (hardener)

Gene emphasizes:

• Use equal amounts (1:1 ratio)

• Mix thoroughly for at least 2 minutes

• Silicone is forgiving—less foaming and bubbling than many resins

Then pour slowly over the object, covering it with enough thickness to create a durable mold.

Gene likes to pour about ½ inch higher than necessary for strength.

Step 7: Let the Mold Cure (Don’t Rush This)

For the silicone mold:

• Let it cure at least 24 hours

• 24–48 hours is ideal for thicker molds

Amy says it best: silicone and WoodCast™ are two things you don’t want to rush.

Your Mold Can Last for Years

Once cured, silicone molds can last a very long time.

Amy and Gene share that during their years as furniture manufacturers, they created hundreds of molds—and many are still usable today.

They also note:

• WoodCast™ does not generate heat, so it’s gentler on molds

• Some materials like CeramiCast can generate heat and may wear molds over time

Casting WoodCast™ into Deep Detail Molds

Now for the fun part.

Why acetone matters (and what to use)

To work WoodCast™ into deep, detailed molds, you need 100% pure acetone.

Gene is clear:
Nothing else works the same. Acetone is the winner.

Use a small cup with a little acetone for dipping and workability.

How to press it in

• Remove only what you need

• Keep the bag sealed and airtight while working

• Break WoodCast™ into small pieces and soften with acetone

• Press firmly into the mold, especially into undercuts and crevices

• Keep pushing until every detail is captured

Smooth the back

Flatten the backside so the finished casting lays flush for easy attachment later.

Drying time for thick casts

For deep molds, Gene recommends:
✅ 48 hours (2 days)

Let it fully dry in the mold so you don’t lose detail or damage edges.

When it’s ready, your casting will feel like wood because it is wood fiber—it has the weight of wood and finishes like raw wood.

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Restoration Tip: Fix Missing Pieces with a “Partial Mold”

If you have a frame or furniture piece with a missing section, here’s a pro restoration trick:

1. Use a soft reusable clay (not air-dry clay)

2. Build a border/“valley” around only the area you need to mold

3. Apply a thin wax/Vaseline release

4. Pour silicone into that section

5. Let cure 24 hours

6. Remove the mold and cast the replacement piece using WoodCast™

This is how experienced restoration pros recreate missing trim and carvings—without replacing the whole piece.