With the use of just One-Step Paint from Amy Howard at Home, you can successfully refinish virtually and piece of furniture and decor with ease.
You don’t have to stop there, however...
At Amy Howard Home, we invite you to go even further by creating a variety of finishes using different types of customized waxes which you can use to enhance your pieces with one of our most popular One Step Paint color - Black.
In this tutorial, you'll learn five ways that waxes can help you add magic to pieces painted in Black - One-Step Paint.
Your paint may appear grainy as you are mixing it. You can mix your paint the night before you are scheduled to use it to allow all the grains more time to dissolve.
Don’t try to make it thicker like you’re working with the One-Step Paint.
Step 3: Apply Your Milk Paint
Milk Paint settles. Stir your paint adequately before using it to guarantee good pigmentation. Agitate your paint with your brush as you go along.
Paint in long, clean strokes across the surface of your piece. It might look like you’re not getting coverage because your paint is thin but it will become more opaque as it dries. Milk Paint dries the color that it is in powder form.
Staining furniture and various other pieces does not have to be a complicated nor an unpleasant experience.
You can easily enjoy the process of restoring old wood while adding beauty to various surfaces - from wooden serve ware to a chest of drawers - with the help of Amy Howard at Home Gel Stains and Mind Your Own Beeswax.
This tutorial will guide you through a way of making any wooden piece look like new again while also giving it an added layer of protection.
Step 1: Choose a Color
There are several options of pigmented Gel Stains you can choose from...
Use tape to divide your surface into four sections. You will use three sections to test different types of waxes. One section will feature just the base paint.
Step 2: Prepare Your Plate and Applicators
A Chinet paper plate is recommended for mixing your waxes in. It offers some amount of absorption that will help in loading and offloading your applicators. Avoid mixing your waxes in a coated paper plate or a ceramic plate.
You can apply your custom waxes using a lint-free rag or a natural bristle chip brush. Avoid using synthetic brushes. Afterward, you can clean wax off of your brushes using Clean Slate or paint thinner. Do not use soap and water.
You can apply this wax with a lint-free rag and brush over it to create a striated look.
Step 4: Section 2 - Wax with One-Step Paint
Mix two parts Mind Your Own Beeswax and one part One-Step Paint in Black. You can use a lint-free rag, a brush, or both, to apply this wax. If it goes on too dark, you can use a 4/0 steel wool to thin it out.
This black wax is great for pieces with fluting and other types of trim. Note that you cannot use other types of paint - specifically, acrylic paint - in creating colored waxes.
Step 5: Section 3 - Use Cerusing Wax
The Amy Howard at Home Cerusing Wax is a white wax that can both be a glaze and a protectant.
Squeeze a small amount of Cerusing Wax on your surface. You can spread it over and coat your surface using a brush or a lint-free rag. The result will be a subtle and soft finish.
It is important to reiterate that a wax is the last thing that you’re going to apply onto any piece you’re working on.
If you love restoring antiques, knowing which waxes and how much of them to use will come in handy. When restoring a vase, for instance, you can apply a black wax into its crevices to create better detail.
If you’re rescuing a drawer, avoid using too much wax by feathering it in from the edges instead of applying more.
With practice, you can achieve a beautiful and authentic look for every restoration project you embark on.
Start making your custom waxes now with these products from Amy Howard at Home:
Rescuing and restoring various furniture pieces can be a very rewarding experience for anyone!
You should, however, know exactly what type of products have to be used in order to achieve the most ideal results in every project you embark on.
In this tutorial, we focus on the differences between the Amy Howard at Home selections of Toscana Milk Paint and chalk-based paint - when they should and shouldn’t be applied, what finishes can be achieved, and what things make Amy Howard at Home refinishing products better than most.
The Difference Between Milk Paint & Chalk Based Paint
When you purchase a can of One-Step Paint from Amy Howard at Home, you’ll find the product ready to use as it is.
One-Step Paint can be applied on practically any surface - plastic, glass, resin, and even fabric.
The Toscana Milk Paint products, on the other hand, are in powder form. Milk Paint is made from casein, which is a milk-based product.
Once you prepare your Toscana Milk Paint from Amy Howard at Home and mix it with water, you can expect a shelf life of 1-2 weeks. Left un-mixed, Milk Paint can last for years in its powdered form.
Ideal Usage For Milk Paint & Chalk Based Paint
Due to its great adhesive quality, One-Step Paint can provide great coverage over various surfaces. You can, for instance, use it to restore an old drawer and make it look like new.
If you want to mimic the look of a worn, antique chair, instead, a layered Milk Paint finish will do the job right. You can also use milk paint with Antiquing Glaze and Cracked Gesso for even better results.
Amy Howard At Home Toscana Milk Paint
Note, though, that not all milk paints are made equal. Milk paint options from Amy Howard at Home are superior in both beauty and quality.
All pigments used for each and every pack of Toscana Milk Paint are shipped from natural quarries in Provence.
Every Toscana Milk Paint color has great depth and is naturally beautiful; whereas, other offerings in the market might only be synthetic.
Knowledge truly is the key to succeeding with any endeavor.
Successfully rescue and restore furniture throughout your home by choosing the right paint for the ideal finish.
If you want to try creating beautiful milk paint or chalk-based paint projects, try doing so with the following products:
Using a foam roller, evenly cover your entire countertop with your chosen base paint color. Two coats should be good enough.
This is the only time you’ll be using your paint as is. For the rest of the project, you’ll have to apply each of your chosen colors as a glaze.
Step 3: Scumbling
Your next layer of paint will be applied via scumbling, covering most of your countertop surface.
Create a scumbling glaze by mixing one part paint, one part Glazed Over, and three parts water. Using a sea wool sponge, apply the glaze over your countertop. Do so following a 45-degree angle, going from the upper-left to the lower-right sections.
Step 4: Smooth Your Scumble
Using a packed and flattened lint-free towel, soften your second layer further and allow the paint to blend into the negative spaces. Allow some areas to be darker than others.
Let your countertop dry.
Step 5: Veining
Using the same One-Step Paint color as your scumble, make a veining glaze with a mixture of paint, Glazed Over, and water. The objective is to create thin veins as well as thick veins.
Soften a turkey feather in water and use it to apply your second glaze. Do so by lifting your feather up and laying it down, repeatedly, aiming to have different size and color veins on about 60% of your countertop.
Step 6: Secondary Veins
Create a second veining glaze with another color like Graphite One-Step Paint and aim to cover about 20% of your countertop with darker, even thicker veins.
Step 7: Soften Your Veins
With a chip brush and in a pouncing motion, soften the veins you created and allow them to blend into your first two paint layers.
Be careful not to drag your brush. You can also use a packed, lint-free rag to help soften the veins even further.
Step 8: Glaze with Your Base
Using one part of your base coat paint, one part Glazed Over, and two to three parts water, mix a thin top glaze to apply all over your countertop. Use a foam roller to cover the entire surface.
Step 9: Set Everything Back
Soften and set all your paint layers back with the use of a clean lint-free rag. As though repeatedly patting your countertop dry, continually move your rag around, following the same direction along a 45-degree angle on your countertop.
Let everything dry.
Step 10: Seal Your Countertop
With a foam roller, apply a coat of the Amy Howard Matte Sealer. This will keep your countertop protected and help keep its finish looking great for a long time.
Particularly, if you’re new to projects such as this, you can practice creating a faux Carrara marble finish on masonite boards first. The more you do so, the better and more creative you’ll become.
You can recreate the same faux Carrara marble finish in this tutorial with the following products: